THE SACRED MOUNTAIN

Mt Penanggungan, which lies between Surabaya, Malang and Mojokerto, is not a high mountain. Rising only 1,650m above sea level, it is dwarfed by the giganfic peaks of Arjuna and Welirang to the south. Yet the mountain's unique form, as well as the fact that it stands alone, rising majestically above East Java's northern plain, makes Penanggungan especially prominent. The mountain is best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, from the road leading south from Surabaya to Pandaan and Prigen and then west towards Trawas, Pacet and Mojokerto.
The idea of the mountain as a place for retreat, meditation and spiritual sustenance is well known in Java. Since time immemorial, the Javanese have recognized the volcanic peaks as sources of nourishment, as well as agents of the most terrible devastation. During the Hindu period, mountains like Bromo and Semeru were seen as being inhabited by benevolent, yet irritable gods, who were quick to offend and thus needed constant placation. According to Javanese mythology, the holy Mt Mahameru, home of the Hindu gods, was transported to Java in order to hold the island in place.
During the journey, however, it began to break apart, the base falling to earth and becoming Mt Semeru, Java's highest mountain, while the peak landed some distance away on the plains near Surabaya. Little wonder that such a story should be attached to Mt Penanggungan when considering its shape. A central, almost perfectly rounded summit surrounded by four minor peaks, more or less symmetrically arranged, reflects clearly the form of the 'cosmic mountain' itself. Judging by the enormous number of ancient archaeological remains hidden away on its slopes, it is clear that Penanggungan has, through history, been regarded as an especially sacred place. No less than 81 temple sites have been discovered on the mountain, mostly dating from the 14th and 15th centuries and taking the form of terraced 'altars', aligned with the mountain peak. Quite a number of them are to be found on the minor summits of Mt Bekel and Mt Gajah Mungkur. Conditions here are steep, overgrown and subject to landslides. In addition, the area is home to various species of wild animal, including the leopard, so it is advisable to consult with a guide before setting off on any expeditions. Although many of the temples are situated high up on difficult terrain, there are a few near the base of the mountain which can be reached quite easily.

Mt. Penaggungan,viewed from the north west

Even if time is short, a drive around the mountain and a visit to the sites of Candi Jolotundo and Candi Belahan should not be missed. These two sacred bathing places are among the oldest remains on Mt Penanggungan and date from the reign of King Airlangga in the 11th century. Belahan, in fact, is believed to be the burial place of the king himself. Two beautiful life size stone images of the goddesses Sri and Laksmi can be seen at the bathing pool. The famous portrait of 'Airlangga as Vishnu', which used to stand between the two goddesses, was taken from the site some years ago and can now be seen at the museum in Mojokerto.

While Candi Belahan faces east and is approached from Pandaan, between Tretes and Surabaya, Candi Jolotundo is located on the other side of the mountain. A narrow road leading south to Ngoro descends from Trawas and winds through the forest. At Jolotundo it is possible to arrange a hike to the mountain's summit, or hire a guide to visit some of the other temple sites which can only be reached on foot.



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